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Varkala, Kerala’s black sand beach town, is one of the best in India and is absolutely worth visiting if you enjoy sunsets and a relaxed atmosphere.
Varkala was the last stop on my 10-day Kerala trip, where I spent 2 days soaking in its beaches, cafés, and sunset-lit evenings before flying out from Trivandrum.
Still reeling from the quiet beach moments and euphoric evenings on the cliff, here is my experience of Varkala travel, with all the details: Varkala tourist places, things to do in Varkala, places to see, and the reasons why you must take a trip to this beach city once in your life.
If you are planning a trip to Kerala, here are some travel tips for first-time travellers.
- First Impressions of Varkala: Where the West Meets the South East
- Where Is Varkala and Why Is It So Famous?
- Is Varkala Worth Visiting? The Honest Answer
- Is Varkala better than Goa?
- North Cliff vs South Cliff – The Two Sides of Varkala
- Things to Do in Varkala (Beyond the Water Sports)
- How I Spent 2 Days in Varkala
- Where to Stay in Varkala – North Cliff or South Cliff?
- What is the Best time to visit Varkala?
- Is Varkala good for solo/women travellers?
- How to go to Varkala?
- Why You Should Stay in Varkala at Least Once in Your Lifetime
- Questions You have About Varkala
First Impressions of Varkala: Where the West Meets the South East
Varkala feels like a meeting point of cultures that coexist without friction.
My first impression of Varkala in Kerala was one of a kind: a modern city, deeply steeped in cultural identity.
For instance, while visiting one of the oldest temples in the city, we saw a saree-clad Indian woman, peacefully worshipping before a tree, while a French woman, dressed in shorts and a tank top, animatedly chatted with her partner, standing close by. Somehow, this set the tone of my visit throughout.
While the city was bustling with locals engrossed in their daily lives, the main tourist areas were buzzing with foreigners, some in their own element, and others in traditional sarees and suits, trying to fit in.
Where Is Varkala and Why Is It So Famous?
A coastal town in Kerala, South India, Varkala is known for the 15-meter-high sedimentary cliffs adjacent to the sea.
It falls under the Thrivandrum district of Kerala, South India, and is bordered by the Arabian Sea.
Standing on the cliff, witnessing the sunrays finally emerging between the clouds, I felt like these were the rays of divine light, looking over the thousands of people who visit the very famous Varkala beach every day. At that moment, I felt like this was the perfect destination to retire and rest amidst the gorgeous cafes, pristine beaches, and beautiful sunsets.

The biggest attractions of this city are its vibrant cafes, bohemian shopping, and stunning sunset views from the cliff.
It is also a center for water sports & surfing, along with spiritual and Ayurveda retreats.
Often compared to Goa for its bohemian environment, Varkala is known to be one of the best affordable destinations for Indians and tourists alike.
Also Read: Kerala Travel Guide for Slow Travellers
Is Varkala Worth Visiting? The Honest Answer
If you are a slow traveller like me, a Varkala trip is worth every cent.
It has beaches that feel genuinely different from Goa: quieter, more culturally layered, and less aggressively commercial.
The long cliff along the city is one of the many reasons I think Varkala is worth visiting.
However, it might not be for every traveller.
If you are the kind of traveller who needs 10 sightseeing stops a day, Varkala will feel slow and repetitive after the first afternoon.
There isn’t much to see except the beaches, the cliff walk, & the temple.
Who will love Varkala:
- Slow travellers and couples who want to sit by the sea without being sold something every five minutes
- People ending a longer Kerala trip who need to decompress (which is exactly how we used it)
- Travellers who like beach towns with shopping areas and rich culture.
Who might not like Varkala:
- First-time Kerala visitors who want to see multiple destinations — Varkala works better as a last stop than a first
- Travellers who hate humidity — Varkala afternoons can be punishing during the summer seasons.
- Anyone expecting the infrastructure of Goa — getting around Varkala, especially between North and South Cliff, requires planning.
- Anyone looking for Goa-style nightlife or luxury shopping
Is Varkala better than Goa?
The answer is yes, but it again depends upon the kind of traveller you are.
Varkala is calmer, cheaper, and less crowded.
However, it does not have Goa’s variety of beaches or nightlife. You won’t find many things to do in Varkala.
However, it is the best place to relax with calmness and slowness.
So, if you want to go somewhere and simply be for two days, Varkala delivers that better than Goa.
North Cliff vs South Cliff – The Two Sides of Varkala
Varkala has two distinct sides, commonly referred to as the South Cliff and North Cliff.
The south cliff is known to be the quieter side, often visited by travelers who are looking for a relaxed and tranquil vacation. It has resorts, 5-star hotels, residential areas, clean beaches, less crowded cafes and restaurants, and boutique shops. In short, it provides a calmer and quieter atmosphere.
On the other hand, most people know Varkala for the North Cliff area, which is always bustling with fancy, vibrant cafes, yoga centers, street shopping, massage parlors, and the beach.
North Cliff is the area where most tourists flock for its lively feel.
Depending on the vibe and experience travelers look for, thanks to booming tourism, Varkala has ample accommodation on both sides of the city.
Related read: Packing essentials for Kerala
Things to Do in Varkala (Beyond the Water Sports)
Varkala has something for everyone, from tranquility to adventure. Depending on the time you reach Varkala, you can choose what you want to do. If you arrive in the evening, I would suggest going straight to the North Cliff to soak in the vibe. However, if you arrive in the afternoon or morning, visiting the temple is a good choice.
Here are a few things you can do.
Visit the Varkal’s 2000-year-old Swami Janardanaswamy Temple
One of the most famous, revered, and ancient temples in Varkala is the Swami Janardanaswamy Temple. Located within walking distance from the Varkala beach, it is known to be 2000 years old and is perched on a small hill that can be reached by a short flight of stairs.
One of the most striking features of the temple is its softly illuminated interior. From the outer foyer, it appears as though hundreds of lamps are glowing around the idol.
However, upon stepping inside, I realised there was only a single diya placed in front of it.
To my astonishment, I found that the illusion is created by a thoughtful arrangement of mirrors positioned around the sanctum, which reflect the flame in the dimly lit inner chamber. The effect is mesmerizing, as though the sanctum is lit by countless sources of light.
Though the temple was not grand or embellished, its aura felt peaceful.
I spoke for a while with an elderly priest, sitting outside the temple. He shared that the temple has a strict dress code and the devotees are not allowed to wear jeans, shorts, shirts, or revealing outfits. Men could only enter the main temple area bare-chested.
Temple timings: 4:00 AM – 12:00 PM and 5:00 PM – 8:00 PM daily.
Entry is free.
Photography is not allowed inside.`
Be a Beach Bum

The best way to experience Varkala is to simply laze by the sea, collecting shells, watching the waves, and waiting for the sun to sprinkle varied colors on the horizon as it sets.
Varkala beach felt very different from Mararikulam (I described my experience of staying on Mararikulam beach here), largely because of its closeness to the city and the kind of life it attracts.
Instead, beaches on the North Cliff, Varakala, were louder, brighter, and full of movement. People were everywhere, frolicking in the water, swimming against the rushing waves & playing with their families.
Some sat silently staring at the sunset, soaking in the moment, while others enjoyed themselves with a full-fledged picnic, complete with games, snacks, and animated chatter.
As we relaxed on the beach, watching the stunning sunset, we noticed a large European group posing for pictures with their luggage beside them. It looked like that was their last day, as they looked sad and elated at the same time.
We also found a few jellyfish washed in by the tide, scattered along the shore, looking like translucent puddles of water resting on the sand.

Transparent dead jellyfish on the beachIt felt alive and joyous.
If you want to be in the middle of all this energy, the beach below the North Cliff is where you should be.
But if you crave quiet, you can climb up to the cliff and walk a few minutes to reach the Southern side of the cliff to reach a different, quieter beach.
Here, there was almost no one around.
We spent our mornings on this quieter stretch of beach, alone with the cool breeze, the rhythmic crash of waves, and clean & silent air. It gave us the same feeling of tranquility that we felt while cruising through the Munroe Island backwaters.
Shopping at Varkala Cliff
Shopping on the cliff is another interesting thing to do in Varkala, even if you find nothing to buy. I love browsing through local markets, and it was a bliss to explore the various merchandise displayed across the colourful shops on the North Cliff.
While the South Cliff has a handful of quieter, boutique stores, the North Cliff is truly a shopping paradise.
The shops seemed to sell everything, from clothes, beads, gemstone jewellery, hats, to all kinds of beach essentials. The clothing on display was unlike anything I had seen before, and the same was true for the jewellery.
Contrary to artificial and oxidized jewellery, which Indian tourists were interested in, here I noticed foreign travellers eagerly ordering customised gemstone pieces, pendants, earrings, and rings, curiously watching them being crafted with visible excitement.
I picked up a few outfits that I instantly loved, excited that these would enhance my usual wardrobe.
One thing I would strongly suggest is bargaining. Bargaining is essential here, and it’s best to do it politely.
If you’re looking for better prices, the shops located slightly below the cliff tend to be more reasonable than those right on top.
Relish Global Food in Vibrant Cafes on the North Cliff
Exploring the cliffside food scene was easily one of the most fascinating parts of being in Varkala. At times, it didn’t feel like I was in one corner of India but somewhere at the crossroads of the world.
Visitors from different countries were scattered across cafés, each enjoying their comfort food, and fittingly, the menus reflected this global mix.
On our second day, we ended our exploration with a comforting bowl of hot thupka.
What amused me, though, was that almost every foreigner seated around us was happily indulging in North Indian staples, naan, dal makhni, and paneer curry.
It was interesting to see how deeply travellers from other nationalities loved Punjabi cuisine. They sat there chatting animatedly, oversized naans taking up most of their plates, savouring each bite, perhaps drawn to the novelty of it all.
The cafés themselves were a joy to spend time in. The best ones embraced a bohemian aesthetic, complete with swings, crochet hangings, and relaxed beachy vibes.
After walking around the cliff in the afternoon heat, completely dehydrated and sweaty with humidity, sinking into these cool spaces with a cold mojito felt like a heavenly reward.

Having a chilled mojito in the humid afternoon in one of the cafes. In many ways, these cafés became a melting point for travellers from colder countries, who seemed genuinely relieved to pause, unwind, and escape the relentless heat and humidity outside.
Get a satisfying Ayurveda massage
There was one thing I was certain about while travelling through Kerala: I wanted a good Ayurvedic massage. And since Varkala was the last stop of our trip, it felt like the perfect place to slow down and end the journey on a relaxed note.
We booked our massage through the hotel and had a genuinely good experience (Read how to find a genuine massage center and my Ayurvedic massage experience.
That said, Ayurvedic massages are extremely popular in Varkala, especially among foreign travellers, and there are plenty of massage centres lining the cliff as well.
However, when you indulge in one, ensure you have it done by professionals and enquire thoroughly about the center.
In case you have a packed schedule or are travelling with family, book a massage session in advance.
How I Spent 2 Days in Varkala

Day 1:
- Arrived by afternoon → checked into the beachside hotel (B’Canti) on the South Cliff.
- Evening: walked to North Cliff, explored the shops, bought some statement jewellery.
- Dinner on the cliff
Day 2:
- Early Morning: quiet beach time on the South Cliff — practically empty
- Late Morning: Ayurvedic massage followed by breakfast.
- Afternoon: Visited the temple
- Evening: Back to North Cliff, explored the market, and watched the sunset.
- Night: Packed for Trivandrum
What I’d do differently:
- Rent a scooter from day one — the rickshaw situation is genuinely annoying
- Spend more time on the quieter southern stretch in the early morning
- Book the massage for Day 1 evening, not Day 2, so you’re not stiff for the journey after
Where to Stay in Varkala – North Cliff or South Cliff?
Where you choose to stay in Varkala will largely depend on the kind of experience you are looking for. If you are looking for slow travel with tranquil evenings and slow mornings, the South Cliff is a great choice.
It is dotted with both luxury and budget resorts, quieter lanes, and a more relaxed atmosphere.
We stayed on the South Cliff at the B’Canti Boutique Beach Resort, and it turned out to be a lovely choice.
The resort had a beautiful sea-view restaurant, a swimming pool, and an in-house massage centre.
I’ve written in detail about our stay there, which you can read here.

However, if you wish to be in the middle of the action, surrounded by lively cafés, people, shopping, and food, then staying at the North Cliff makes more sense. This side of Varkala is packed with hostels, homestays, and a few decent hotels, where most of the action takes place.
Alternatively, Varkala also has no shortage of homestays and hostels. We explored a few options and found Zostel and Barefoot Hostel (Check the current tariff here) to be good, budget-friendly picks for travellers looking for a social stay.
One thing to keep in mind if you choose to stay at the South Cliff and plan to spend time at the North Cliff or Varkala Beach is transportation. It can be a little difficult to find rickshaws in that part of the city, and they tend to overcharge if you’re unfamiliar with the area. Renting a two-wheeler or a car makes commuting much easier, especially in the evenings.
What is the Best time to visit Varkala?
As with all the beaches, Varkala experiences hot weather throughout the year. However, the best time to visit the Varkala beach city is from October to March, when you can enjoy pleasant weather, beach time, and sunset walks on the cliff.
Is Varkala good for solo/women travellers?
Yes, Varkala is known to be safe for both solo and female travelers.
If you are traveling from outside India, it is best to make bookings beforehand, bargain for services, and avoid venturing into unknown, secluded places at night.
How to go to Varkala?
There is no airport in Varkala, so you will have to travel through Trivandrum or Kochi to reach it.
If you are travelling by train, you can book your tickets from Ernakulam station in Kochi or Trivandrum Central from Trivandrum to Varkala Sivagiri station in Varkala.
The best part, though, is that you can also get a direct train to Varkala from major Indian cities like New Delhi and Mumbai.
Alternatively, you can also rent a car from Kochi (181 km, approx. 5 hours) or Trivandrum ( 41 km, approx. 1.5 hrs.) to reach Varkala.
Once you arrive, getting around Varkala can be trickier.
Rickshaws are available near the station and main beach, but usually overcharge tourists.
The best way would be to rent a two-wheeler (around ₹300–400/day) to explore the city.
Related read: How to Spend Two Days in Kochi
Why You Should Stay in Varkala at Least Once in Your Lifetime
Varkala felt like a place that harbours a perfect confluence of tradition, global exposure, and energy.
Standing at the edge of North South Cliff, I could see two worlds before me. On one side was a simple Keralite family in their mundus and sarees, heading home after shopping for their evening groceries, and on the other was a European couple dressed in athleisure and bandanas, ready for their evening yoga class at one of the many studios on the cliff.
Varkala felt like a closure to our Kerala trip, and I highly recommend it if you love beaches. The presence of the cliff and the black sand beach made it a memorable stop in our itinerary.
Travelling to Varakal offered the best of both worlds, serenity and fun, if only you knew where to find each.
Also read: Why you must plan a Kerala trip
Questions You have About Varkala
Is Varkala worth visiting?
Yes, Varkala offers a rare mix of cliffside beaches, cultural depth, and a relaxed global vibe, making it ideal for slow travellers.
What is the best time to travel to Varkala?
October to March is the best time to visit Varkala for pleasant weather and calm seas.
How many days are enough for Varkala?
Two to three days are enough to experience the cliffs, beaches, cafés, and Ayurvedic treatments at a relaxed pace.
Is Varkala better than Goa for Indian travellers?
For Indian travellers who want a calmer, less commercial beach experience, Varkala is often a better fit than Goa. It is significantly quieter, more affordable, and culturally richer. Goa has more variety and nightlife; Varkala has more atmosphere.
Which is better — North Cliff or South Cliff, Varkala?
A: North Cliff is better if you want cafés, shopping, energy, and beach access to the main beach. South Cliff is better if you want quiet mornings, fewer crowds, and cleaner stretches of beach.
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